Does anything compare to the altec lansing atp3?

I have never known anyone who bought a Bose speaker who, if they set them up correctly, didn't at least like them or find them pleasing. These speakers coupled with the MP3 make a very inexpensive and great sounding stereo. I have a small study that I am going to get a second pair for. I didn't want to be blasted out by noise when my cordless or blackberry rang (shielding issues with my previous speakers). What I wanted was Pleasing sound when I work. I do not pay a lot of computer games nor listen to very loud music any longer. I know enough about audio to know that room dimensions, wall type, floor type, curtains and shape influence sound in general. I was not going for Booming Bass or Ultra clear highs. With that preface in mind, I love the Bose MediaMate Speakers.

I like to think I have matured past that stage. I presented myself as a an Audiophile with all of the snobery I could muster. I wonder what an Audiophile vs an Enthusiast is? I am 50, in my late teens early twenties I was certified as an Audio Technician, Sold both High end and Mid Range Audio Gear and listened to a lot of Rock.

PS: I managed to hack 251 control satellite speaker to somewhat work with VS4121 Subwoofer but that is another subject.I find it interesting that you are required to rate youself regarding your listening experience. Resistor R and capacitor C should make simple passive low pass filter (Google for formula) that should short any frequency higher than 80-120Hz to ground and feed frequencies lower than 80-120Hz to pin 4. Attach capacitor C between Pin 4 and Ground pin 0 (I used Electrolytic 1uF with negative end to ground). Attach Variable pin of the potentiometer to pin 4 (Bass input signal). Attach 50k potentiometer (I used 10k) between point A and ground 0. Attach other ends of the resistors to pins 3 and 5 respectively. Bass control - join two resistors R (I used 7k) and call this join point A. Volume control 50k potentiometer (probably anything between 10k and 50k will do) between pin 7 and 0 with variable output to pin 9 It seems they use 50K potentiometer but probably anything >10k should work.ДЄt minimum for standalone subwoofer you will need to implement: When ON and headset jack unplugged then 5VД© - Volume (min=0V max=5V). When OFF or headset jack plugged then 0V. When set to Max it is taking signal from Right and Left Head Set (pins 3 and 5) combined through some larger resistors and low pass filter.Д¦ - Ground for Headset (grounds 0 and 6 seems to be connected in the subwofer but within the right satellite speaker they seem to be isolated with separate leads to sub)Д§ - Power ON/OFF. When potentiometer is set to Min it is shorted with ground. Then:Дў - Treble (seems just like voltage control but may need to be confirmed: Min=0V Max=voltage from Volume control Pin 9)Д¤ - Bass signal (not sure what the exact original design is as I have not opened the speaker) But seems like they use 50K potentiometer and some sort of RC low pass filter configuration. Take the male connector (from right satellite speaker) and number pins in first row from left to right as 1-3, pins in the second row as 4-7, pins in the bottom row as 8-9 and the circle enclosure as 0. Obviously there is no service documentation anywhere.Д«ut if you like electronics you can try to make something based on the information below: Speakers are also glued together so it is impossible to open without damaging it. I acquired satellite speakers from Altec Lansing 251 which used same connectors but the internal wiring was different and incompatible. Got a subwoofer from VS4121 without original satellite speakers.

So if one of the components (subwoofer or right control satellite speaker) breaks or gets lost the whole system is unusable. Normally these low end system components depend on each other and cannot be interchanged with components from other system.

The orange plug wire to it, Personally I removed the entire cord from the unit, shough you can splice in at this point if you desire.Д¬onnect the white lead to your posative on your power supply by either splicing or soldering, connect the ground to the heat sink using the screw that is already there holding the chip to the sink. Now you need to supply power to the amp.If you do not have the subwoofer you will need a 4.5volt power supply, after removing the board from the casing find the red white and black wires connecting This can be done by sharply rapping the seam at the bottom of the speaker with a heavy screwdriver handle or something similar. These speakers are factory molded so that the only way to open them is to break the factory seal Unfortunately the subwoofer supplies the power to the amp on the speakers, Once again I have the solution, SOURCE: I have Altec Lansing AVS 300 multimedia speakers with no power

Does anything compare to the altec lansing atp3?